Extracted from Malaysiakini

 

It's not easy being a Penan

K Kabilan | Nov 23, 09 8:54am

 

Long Lamam is a Penan village located in the remote interior of Ulu Baram in Sarawak. The village sits at the bank of the clear running, rock-filled Sungai Selaan.

This river is also the main link from this village to the outside world. A 60-minute upstream boat ride takes the villagers to a timber track road. From there, the nearest town is a place called Long San, some two hours away. Miri is another four hours away from Long San.

Long San is the place where the Penan children go to school. It is also the nearest place with a doctor, the police or any government agencies.

 

There are some 200 people in this village, with approximately 55 households (pintu). The village head is Balang Tui, a small sized man with a soft voice and a ready smile.

A small field stands between the village head's house and the river and from his house Balang can see anyone who comes to Long Lamam through Sungai Selaan.

There are other houses nearby but most of the villagers live on higher ground located about 200 metres behind Balang's house. There is also a small church at the higher ground.

Long Lamam is located in a valley surrounded by thick jungle, making it easy for the villagers to go hunting with their blowpipes and to collect wild jungle fruits and jungle products. Some of them have cleared the jungle for farming purposes.

There is no electricity in this village but a generator provides power to Balang's house, the village pastor's house and the church. Even latrines are a new discovery for them, courtesy of some NGO friends. Water is sourced from the river.

On the surface, life seems to be peaceful and pleasant for these villagers but in reality there are many deep-rooted problems that threaten to destroy their very existence.

 

"This jungle is our world but the development which is taking root here now is slowly pushing us into a corner," Balang (left) told Malaysiakini during a visit to his village in early November.

Long Lamam, as with many other Penan villages in the Ulu Baram area, is slowly being squeezed out of its life by rampant logging and the emergence of oil palm plantations. The entire jungle, which has been the home of the Penans, has been given away by the state government to logging giants.

Also, almost 80 percent of the 16,000 Penan population in Sarawak are also facing problems in many areas which most Malaysians take for granted - education, health, security and being recognised as citizens.

These can be attributed to the fact that the Penans are the smallest and the most isolated of tribes in Sarawak today.

"It's not true that we don't want development but we feel it should not come at the expense of our lifestyle and our trees. For us, these trees are the symbol of our development," pointed out Balang who is in his early 50s.

All will be gone soon

Balang and his villagers are dreading the day when the sound of chainsaws get closer and closer to their village. It is bound to happen as logging is already taking place in the jungle located about two hours away. One other Penan village - Long Ajeng - is now standing between the loggers and Long Lamam.

"It will be a sad day when we are forced to move out from our land by the big logging companies. If we can, we want to talk with them about not destroying our jungle," he said.

At the moment, while open logging has not started near Long Lamam, logging companies have started encroaching into their area to cut down certain species of trees.

Although by nature the Penans are a group of people who dislike confrontation, Balang said that if left with no choice, they will be forced to take on the might of the logging companies.

"If they are agreeable to negotiations, we will listen and we want them to listen to our demands but if they insist of trampling on us, then we will do our best to stop them," he said, with a certain vigour in his voice. The villagers who had gathered around him during the interview murmured their approval.

This will not be the first time for Balang and other senior villagers to be crossing paths with the logging companies.

In June 1991, more than 300 Penans from Long Ajeng and other villages mounted a blockade near the village to stop logging activities. The blockade continued till early 1992 despite aggressive response from the logging companies and it was finally called off after the intervention of fully armed riot police.

And then in March 1993, once again the Penans mounted another blockade at Long Mobui, located on the upper Selaan river, about an hour away by boat from Long Lamam.

This protest continued for about six months and once again, the police and soldiers got involved in dismantling the blockades, and in the process volleys of tear gas were fired at the Penans.

During this six-month period, nine Penans, including six children, had died due to sickness and hunger.

The Long Lamam and Long Mobui Penans are originally from Long Ajeng - they moved out after the 1991 blockade. With the memory of the skirmishes still fresh in his mind, Balang said his villagers will once again stand up against the logging companies bent on wiping out their homes.

However, deep down he seems to admit that it will be a losing battle for the Penans against the might of the logging companies.

"They will continue logging and we have little choice but to accept it. All we want is for our land to be preserved... for us to live and hunt," he said.

Going a long way for education


The Penans are waging a battle on two fronts simultaneously. On one hand, they are trying to protect their jungle from being destroyed while on the other they are trying their best to get the authorities to provide them with the most basic necessities of life.

Balang said that there were major issues which the Penans faced in terms of educating their children and having access to medical care.

"Our children have to travel all the way to Long San and Long Mo to attend schools. We also have to go to Long San if we need a doctor," he said. Both Long San and Long Mo are three and four hours away respectively from Long Lamam.

He said that the children have to stay in school hostels due to the distance and this worried him and others in the village.

"We don't know what's happening to them there. Sometimes they are bullied, some join the wrong people. We just can't afford to send them to school from our village daily."

It is not just the distance but also the cost of getting there, and this is where their poverty blights them.

Every trip out of the village to Long San will cost a person about RM100 to RM150 and that is simply too expensive for them.

As for the children, although they are entitled to some grants from the schools or the state, in actual fact, they hardly see any money.

"We are asked to pay for so many things in school that the grants given are not enough," added Balang.

There is also fear for the safety of these children when they return home during the weekends or holidays. It is not uncommon for some of the Penan girls to be 'hijacked' and sexually exploited by strangers along the timber route.

"Thus far none of girls from this village have been raped or attacked (sexually) by these people but there is always a fear when our girls travel alone to return home from school," said the head man.

The distance and the poverty have also resulted in some of the children dropping out from school, but not before picking up some habits from the outside world as in wearing football jerseys of Italian and Spanish clubs or having their hair coloured.

Doctor, doctor where are you?


The distance is also hampering the villagers from getting better healthcare. In fact, almost all the villagers at Long Lamam have bad teeth.

At the moment, several volunteer doctors visit these villagers but there is a limit to how often and what form of treatment they can provide during a two-day camp visit.

Balang said that the most common health issues were tooth-related, scabies and gastric. This stems from their poor living standard as well as their poverty.

Toddlers in the village also show signs of malnourishment - tooth decay, poor growth, being underweight, have dry and scaly skin and bloated stomachs.

The village chief said that it was getting impossible to hunt animals and pick jungle fruits as a result of logging activities in the Ulu Baram area.

 

Sometime families go roaming in the jungle for weeks to hunt for food, only to come back with almost nothing. As a result the villagers get by with the little that they can get from farming and their hunts.

Once again, abject poverty keeps these villagers from being able to purchase basic food essentials that they need.

As poverty stricken citizens of the country, they are entitled to claim benefits from the government but that opportunity too, is lost on them because most of them have no national identity cards to prove their citizenship.

"Almost half the villagers here have no MyKad. It's not that we have not applied but our applications are all still pending. When we ask the National Registration Department, we are told to apply again. Some of the villagers here have been waiting for more than five years," he said.

Here's our wish list

Without national identity cards, the villagers not only face difficulties in applying for government aide, but also in seeking treatment from a government doctor or even registering their children at schools.

"Every time we go out to Long San or Lio Mato to apply for our MyKad, we will have to spend money to go over there and on top of that we are asked to pay fines or to pay afresh for new applications," he lamented.

At the end of the interview, Malaysiakini asked Balang what he wanted from the government for his village. He pondered awhile and then in typical Penan fashion, embarked on a small discussion with the people around him.

He then looked up and rolled out his requests, starting with a request for the intense logging activities in his area to be stopped, for a school and health clinic to be built in Long Lamam for his villagers and other neighbouring villages and proper long houses for their use.

"And most importantly, we would like a bridge across the Selaan river so that we have access to the main road," he said, amid laughter from his villagers as though they know these will never materialise.


Tomorrow: Conspiracy abounds over delay in Penan IC applications


[Photos by Maran Perianen]